When it comes to eye shapes, those with hooded lids do not illicit envy from the lucky ladies blessed with almond, round, deep-set or prominent eyes. Nor do they compare with clearly defined creases free from camouflage caused by an ever-present skin bulge protruding below the brow. Yes, hooded lids can look as bad as they sound, but thankfully, they don’t have to. All it takes is a bit of makeup trickery to highlight what’s desirable and make those droopy, tired-looking effects all but disappear.
The products needed are already in a basic beauty arsenal, but knowing how to apply them with the intention of downplaying an over zealous lid is pivotal. Learn how simple mascara, shadows, highlighters and liners work in tandem to transform a hooded lid into an eye-opening experience.
Put on primer
Because even the most taut lids can fall to shadow smear or creasing, the hooded lid is certainly at risk. To keep pigment in place, first prime the lid all over. Doing so creates a smooth surface on which to swipe shadow and a slightly sticky one to ensure it doesn’t move.
Keep eyes open when applying makeup
Despite the tendency to apply shadow with eyes closed, it’s necessary when dealing with hooded lids to keep them wide open. Look right into the mirror to see where to swipe pigment to create a crease, for starters. The open position is also key to determine what shadow will be visible rather than lost in the fold.
Lift with brows
The proper brow shape frames eyes and gives those with heavy lids an instant lift. The go-to look for this is long with high arches. A professional is best to shape brows at first; maintain the style by filling with a brow pencil and grooming with gel.
Brighten the inner corner
A light shade of shadow, such as a champagne or shimmering beige, applied generously at the inner corner reflects light to add brightness and make eyes appear larger. Lighten and open the overall appearance by swiping the same shadow across the lid below the hood. Finally, brush on the same shade just along the lower lash line for the same effect.
Highlight under brow bone
One way to detract from a hooded fold is to highlight right under the brow bone. Doing so makes eyes stand out. A word of caution: Be mindful to reign in where the highlighter is applied. It should be no lower than just below the brow bone.
Create a crease
Because the natural crease may be hidden under a hooded eye, it’s key to create the look of one. Brush on shadow in a curved line and blend above the natural crease so that it is visible. Be sure not to take the color all the way up to the brow bone as a little “white space” is necessary for this effect to work.
Make a cat eye
The subtle uptick at the end of lined lashes is on trend and the perfect means to open an otherwise puffy eye. It’s most precise with a liquid liner but a pencil will do too. To make a cat eye, line the lashes and, just before the end, flick the liner gently to swoop up the edge of the line.
Stick with mattes and darker colors
Pearlized shadows add volume, so only use matte finishes on lids. As for the palette, try to keep the color scheme darker, which will accent eyes and tone down heavy lids. Blended edges are better for hooded lids than harsh lines, so soften with a blending brush.
Be a beginner
Use a basic shadow application tip: Lay a hankie or napkin against your face to create a diagonal line from the side of your nose to the edge of your brows. Apply shadow over the lid using the line as a guide. The resulting neat and angled color instantly opens a hooded eye.
Make the most of mascara
Use a lengthening formula mascara to line top and bottom lashes. This will help to define the eye. Pay added attention to longer middle lashes that do well to mask a puffy lid.
Use false lashes
For an extra bit of definition and coverage, break out the fake lashes. Start by curling natural lashes, add mascara and just add a few of the fakes at the corners. The instant eye lift will be palpable.